It’s five o’clock in Dubrovnik. Tea time. But my friend Dario and me just ordered a hot chocolate. Because its raining outside and its a bit cold, so thats the best option. Gachas’day we could also said.
We came again to the only bar for locals in the historical city center of this stone made city: Caffé-Bar Fontana. Old people came for kava (coffee) since old times. Different images of St Blas, who is the main saint of the City, are on the walls of the bar. We come because its very authentic and because Its the cheapest place. It’s just a normal bar, that thats extraordinary in Dubrovnik, where the other 99% of places are made for tourists. Korean, indian, italian, mexican, chinese food, restaurants for tourists. But not here.
The toilet reminds me the Bar of Foro, in my hometown, because its very small and they don’t care about details… But in this place, on the heart of one of the most touristic cities in the Mediterranean, and well known to be extremely expensive, expresso costs 7 tunas (KN) that is a bit less than 1€. Hot chocolate,12kn, 1’6€, the same than draught beer (30cl). Thats kind of miracle.
Everyone here speaks croatian. Its not because foreigns are not allow . Its because its almost december and there is no many tourists coming in the time of the year. But in summer, around 10.000 tourist came out from to the city from the cruisers. The city has been always beautiful, but in the last 10 years it became just very touristic. Now even more because Game of thrones was filmed here. But we have to mention that each time there are less and less local people living here. It was to be 5.000 the population inside the walls. Nowadays only 1000 croats live here. Because they sold out their apartments. The city became a product itself.
Rain didn’t stop since yesterday night. So we couldn’t bike today. Two days ago we were in Ston, historical belonged to Dubrovnik republic, and famed for its salt production and great walls. In there we were enjoying an awesome weather and even could walk in t-shirt. But now is real autumn weather over here. That means sometimes you’ve to ride under the rain.
I write this post while watching the final of the Davis Cup: Croatia vs Argentina, playing in Zagreb. So it’s somehow special to be in this country whacking this kind of event.
But some other things happened today. First of all, Fidel died. 26 of November 2016. I didn’t check any newspaper. But a friend -with who I shared the passions of traveling- said to me by text message. We’ve in common that we both been in Cuba. So the leader of the cuban revolution, and the head of the Partido Comunista Cubano ended his long life today.
Yesterday night we were cooking some rice with an spanish cheef from Pontevedra who works in Hilton Hotel in Dubrovnik and whose family name is Castro. He told us how people ask him if there is any kind of connexion with Fidel.
Today also is special because we celebrate the 25 years of Toledo as world heritage city, under UNESCO protection. From Unesco city, Dubrovnik, to Unesco city. Toledo, the capital of Castilla – La Mancha region.
Yesterday the owner of a souvenirs shop told us that 25 years go, in December 6th, when St. Nicollas day, some houses were on fire, because of the war on disintegration of Yugoslavia. From the top of the hill, just behind the city, the forces of Yugoslavian Army where shooting to this well preserved and fascinating old town.
Next wednesday, on 30th on November, my grandpa Antonio would be 99 years old. Those days when old people make History.
Con un adio, zivjeli nos despedimos, como se despiden los señores cuando se marchan del Fontana.
Thanks Emer Kurbegovic for his video Dubrovnik in 4k. Drubrovnik from the sky.